They do. I've seen it.

In all seriousness—and contrary to appearances, I am often serious—what I've seen so far of Russia (Moscow, Volgograd/Stalingrad—somewhat astonishingly, there's a movement to change back the name) has been overpowering. Everyone I've met here seems to be bearing the weight of the country's cumulative tragedies and madness and manifesting its famous determination, and I know I risk falling into the cliche of the noble Russian soul, but there's a heaviness of spirit here that's not about economic turmoil or alcohol or politics or even war. It's heavy like crystal. I can't be eloquent in a fluorescent business center on scant sleep, but I am so glad I'm here. Hope you're enjoying the travel issue—I am! So much to discuss when I return. Keep sending those letters to the editor; it is very good and useful to know what you're thinking and what you'd like to see covered more or, God knows, better.